Sip of ravage stamina
If practical, the blanks could be stacked here too.Ģnd op, clamping each part in a fixture that does provide precision location, clamping (pneumatically?), outside the interior cuts and running the interior program, which removes the areas containing the original four bolt holes. Note: very thin parts might require a shaped platten between part and nuts. Then run the exterior routine on all the parts in a run. Blank clamps in fixture which slides around on the drill press table, could stack several in fixture.) and then bolting the blank to a stand-off fixture to elevate the part above the mill table, no critical locating here.
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If you have many to do, how about a drill bushing fixture to drill four holes in the blank, (yes manual but very fast. Should I go a totally different direction on this? Thanks much in advance!
Also, once the parts are machined, it's VERY hard to remove them from the tape itself. Since the tape is a little spongy, things have a tendency to bow up on you even more. I've tried that a bit and the results are interesting but you still need to clamp the material as the tape alone isn't enough to keep the material from sliding while being cut. So what's the trick for parts like this? I've heard carpet tape works well and I can do #2, just with added tape. These are low precision parts (0.01" is fine) so a tiny bit of bow is fine, but it causes other problems like the bit lifting the material and such and that is where I run into problems.
The issue I have with this approach is that as the material gets thinner and larger (to cut multiple parts at once), it gets hard to clamp it properly so that it won't bow up in the middle. I know this is TERRIBLE but it is fast and simple and seems to work with these tiny parts.
It seems there should be a better way.Ģ) Simply cut the part and let it pop itself loose when done, about 1 in 3 or 4 times the "popping loose" nicks the part bad enough that I can't use it. Obviously I could use a thread locker but this would dramatically slow down set up. The problem is the shoulder bolts are quite small (4-40) as the parts are tiny and the bolts work themselves loose while machining the part. Finally, I aligned and touched off the plate and let the machine rip. I then created a fixture plate out of 1/2" aluminum and used shoulder bolts to pin the material to the fixture plate. These holes corresponded to the design so it worked out nicely.
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To date I've done this:ġ) Drilled a series of mounting holes in a piece of raw stock. I've tried doing a variety of things on my smaller machine and some things work well but none of them seem to scale up effectively.
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09" - I'm looking for advice on how to machine these style of parts as quickly as possible - basically set up the machine to create a ton of them and come back in a few hours to find them all done. I've attached an image that represents the type of parts I make currently - basically 2d profiles around the whole perimeter with some drilling and a little bit of pocketing to create the retaining channels. The problem is, I'm not sure the best way to do that and I'm hoping you guys can point me in the right direction. This new machine is both much larger and faster so I want to leverage that all I can. With my previous machine, I was only able to make one or two parts at a time and it took forever to machine much at all. For reference, I sell small parts to people making radio-controlled four to eight rotor helicopters (quadcopters). I think I've gotten to be reasonably good at the few operations I need to make my parts but I recognize that I have a very long ways to go. I'm a total amateur at CNC machining and have slowly been learning all the ins and outs as I go. Hi all I've moved on from my tiny import CNC mill I converted myself to a real (though still a budget model) 3 axis CNC machine with 24" x 15" table travel.